Tiger's Nest Monastery

Everyone knows Tiger's Nest Monastery when they think of Bhutan.  The actual name is Taktshang Goemba and it is the most famous of all of the monasteries in Bhutan. It is said that Guru Rinpoche who is known as the second Buddha since he brought again the word of Buddha to Bhutan created this monastery.  He flew to the site on the back of a tigress to subdue the local demon Singey Samdrup.  He then mediated in a cave for three months.  This is one of the most holy of all places in Bhutan and Bhutanese as well as visitors want to make the climb.  To the side is the picture of Tiger's Nest that we all know.      

This is the Tiger's Nest that was my inspiration to travel to Bhutan and what we set out to see today.

However, the reality was slightly different from the picture.  The weather had a surprise in store for all.  When we started out it was drizzling but as we started up the steep climb the weather changed.

It didn't stop the climb and now I have learned here in Bhutan it is not the destination but the travel that rewards and teaches.  The first picture is a prayer house along the trail.

Everywhere you look there are prayer flags flying in the wind bringing good wishes to all.      
                 

As you might tell from the white spots and the white on the ground in the picture above, the weather surprise was a change from drizzle to snow, quite heavy at times.  In the first picture where we are at the top with Tiger's Nest you can see the monastery although with difficulty.  In the second one you do not.  There is now a white out!

                            

Just to give you an idea of the climb I took a quick photo showing the steepness.  Sometimes the path looks something like steps because of the way the stones lie but most of the way is just earth with small loose stones.  There are only railings on the last entry to the Monastery.  Here is my walking buddy!   

I would love to show you my photo of Tiger's Nest instead of the canned one above but this is the best shot available in the snow.  It is somehow magical in its own way because snow is very rare in this portion of Bhutan.  Maybe the snow is a part of the peace I will take home as my memory of this country since that is what fills your senses from the moment you land.  Today it was so quiet on the hike that you could actually hear the snow falling.  The secret is to make time to have a little of the quiet and the mindfulness in each over busy day we spend running from task to task.  That is the best souvenir from Bhutan.

                                                         




                              

THIMPHU TO PARO

We were treated in Thimphu to folk dancers.  It was fantastic and only gives a small insight into what it would be like to be in Bhutan during one of their many festivals.  Everyone comes in traditional dress and the performers were glorious colors and outrageous masks while the sing and dance.

We visited the Stupa for World Peace.  It as all stupas have decoration outside but you do not enter them.  You walk clockwise seeking forgiveness and enlightenment.

Today we saw the decoration and the prayer wheels but what made this especially memorable was that we had the chance to see the people participating in their ordinary rituals.  

They were spinning prayer wheels.  They were counting pray beads and they were prostrating themselves to secure inner wisdom.          

After the Stupa we went to visit the Golden Buddha.  This huge statute was purchased by a wealthy Singapore business man and given to Bhutan.  It was built in parts in China and assembled in Bhutan.  The third eye of enlightenment is a diamond.  

Near the Buddha as near every holy place are the pray flags placed by the people to secure a blessed life and to ward away the evil.  

On the drive we had the opportunity to see a bridge that had been built in the 15th century and one of the very oldest still standing in Bhutan.
                                                                         

 Bhutan also has the typical roadside stands but here they have yak cheese hanging in addition to the traditional fruits, vegetables and chilies.

KHAMUSUM YULLEY STUPA

Today we leave the peaceful valley with the town of Punakha.  We are going to the capital and metropolis of Thimphu.  Before we leave there is one important Stupa yet to visit.  This is the Khamsum Yulley stupa that overlooks the Mochu river valley from it's high perch atop one of the many hills in Bhutan.  To begin the journey you cross a bridge ant then begin the ascent to see the colorful stupa that honors the current king.  It was built by his mother even before he was crowned.

It looks a million miles up as we start the ascent but we all make it in rather short order.   

Then we descend through the rice patties and see the life of a typical farmer.  

Here he isenjoying preparing his lunch over an open fire.

The pride of Bhutan is their tradition.  Everyone is required to wear national dress when they are working but underneath that dress we find that our guide loves motorcycles and has a

tattoo.  Finally we are down from the Stupa and I feel that it is safe to take my picture at the bridge--I didn't want to do it on the ascent as I was afraid that might have jinked it and that the climb would not have been successful.  But it was and it was all beautiful and well worth the effort!       

Now we start for Thimphu and on the way we get a great treat as we come upon yak grazing.  Yaks are so important to the people of Bhutan as they make clothes from them, drink their milk, make delicious cheese served at almost every meal, and eat them as a meat supply

We finally arrive to Thimphu which is as I mentioned is the capital of Bhutan but what I didn't mention is that it is a one street road with no traffic light and only a traffic director.  It is also a beautiful

town as illustrated by the clock tower shown in the this photo. 

 

We also visited the Thimphu Dzong which was also built in the 17th Century.  It is the office of the King as well as houses a temple for the monks.

Now it is time to check into the hotel.  Would you believe that a monk was on hand to provide a special blessing for us and to provide the traditional Holy Thread known "sung keye".  This is worn to keep you protected and also to ward off evil spirits and other misfortunes.

TRAVEL TO PUNAKHA

Punakha city sits in one of the most beautiful natural valleys of Bhutan.  Indeed Punakha was the capital of Bhutan until the 1950s.  The drive was amazing and as we drove we learned more about this country.  In addition to having happiness as its Gross National Product this country is carbon neutral and plans to be completely organic within 5 years.  One of the weird facts about Bhutan is that there are only about 8 names in the country.  When you are born your  parents take you to the temple and they draw a name out of a hat and it is yours!  This consists of a first and second name but no family names.  No one has one here!  Also, because we are all older than our guide Karma he calls us only Madame because you never address anyone older than you with a name.  It was great to learns all this information as the drive today was long and incredibly mountainous to cross  Dochula Pass (3150 mt.).  By crossing the Pass we had a chance to view the Bhutanese Himalayan Mountains.  Take a look at the road and the mountains.   

We hiked to Chimi Lhakhang which is the fertility temple in Bhutan.  This temple was built in 1499 by Saint Drukpa Kunley (Divine madman) who legend reports subdued the demoness of the Dochu La with his magic thunderbolt of wisdom.  Representations of this thunderbolt are seen everywhere in the local village and the temple.
                                                             


I will add a picture and you can decide if it is truly a magic thunderbolt.        

We also visited the Punakha Dzong built by Shadrung in 1637.  This is the most beautiful and important Dzong as it is where the king is crowned and where his marriage takes place.  Every inch of wall and ceiling space is covered with intricate designs.

We got to see a magic hat dance which is one of the most colorful dances with twirling fabric of many designs. This dance is only performed on very special occasions and we happen to be here for the Lunar New Year.  This year it is the year of the snake.  Since the dance happened in the temple of the monks we were allowed to watch but not take pictures.  You need to come to Bhutan to see it as well!

To the side is an illustration of some of the beauty that you see. It is a gold prayer wheel being spun by one of many who come to worship here.  

A DAY OF SURPRISES AND CHANGES

Today we travel from Nepal to Bhutan.  But before we go, Nepal has one more gift to give us!  It is an early morning mountain flight to see Everest.  This flight circles Everest so that everyone has a chance to see it but amazingly enough we are then invited into the cockpit to take pictures of Everest.  It is impressive even with the cloud top hat that it was wearing.

After this flight we transferred to the international airport to fly to Paro, Bhutan.  Paro has the only international airport in this country and I must say that it is one of the most beautiful airports I have ever seen.  Can you imagine that until 1983 there were no airports and the only way to get to Bhutan was to travel by road from India.  I am glad that we didn't have to do this.

Immediately everyone I am travelling with fell in love with Paro and Bhutan.  This country has only 700,000 inhabitants.  It is calm, quiet and beautiful! All buildings must keep the traditional style so everything is beautiful.  The city is charming and clean and it is true that the gross national product of Bhutan is happiness.




After we visited the city we toured Paro Dzong.  Dzong means fort but now this is shared with the Buddhist monks.  It is beautiful from the paintings to the carving on the structure.

This Dzong had a wonderful vibe and the monks were chanting their comforting mantra which was amazing to hear as we explored.





Once the visit was completed we were headed to the hotel but on the way we saw an archery contest and were able to visit up close and personal.  Archery is the national sport of Bhutan.  We got to see the archers as well as the dancers celebrating the match.                                                                        

Every colorful flag that the archers wear symbolizes an arrow in the target!

BACK TO KATMANDU

So this morning it was time to say goodbye to the beautiful Himalayas but they were willing to give one last surprise with a perfect sunrise.  Then we fly to Kathmandu where we first visited Patan which is considered the beautiful city.  And I have to say that I agree.  Durbar is a combination of many different styles of temples. Would you believe that every city in Nepal has a Durbar Square?  They do since this is the name that means square near a palace.  Durbar Square in Patan which is a town only 8 kilometers from Kathmandu is a shining example of the architecture that represents the best of the Nepal valley towns.  The square is much cleaner than the one in Kathmandu and the buildings more cohesive.  I have a few pictures to compare with the earlier ones from KathmanduStill there was more to see so we visited the Swayambhunath.  This is a temple to honor Buddha and his teachings,  It is amazing with the eyes and symbol of unity plus so many incredible prayer wheels.  Just to show you in case you have not seen,                      
The eyes see all. The curve on the face represents unity and the mark on the forehead speaks of enlightenment,


                                     
 One more adventure. We decided to go the crematorium.  I know that this sound depressing and it is is but we had fun because in addition to the introduction to Nepalese burial customs we had a chance to visit the 'most holy men?"   Take a look and let me know your choice......

                                                        
         

   

POKHARA IS THE JEWEL OF NEPAL

The glimpse of the Himalyas gave a hint but nothing really prepares you for the beauty of the Annapurna range of mountains that you see from our lodge in Pokhara.  The people of Nepal have been beautiful and now the countryside matches in everyway.  This is the view of the from the verandah at our hotel.
 

The mountains are fantastic but you really have to get out in them to enjoy them.  That's why this is Trekkers heaven.  I am about to join them as we set out for a typical Nepalase trekking experience. Again we were able to start with village visits, but this time there was as an intimacy since our guide was from the village we passed through on our way to the hills.  We were able to have a two way discussion with a family where they could ask us whatever they liked. Surprisingly they wanted to know our ages and the number of children we had.  They did not want to know anything about life in the USA.  Here is a picture of one of the groups that we visited with.

But time to show you the goal of the hike and the beauty that we were able to experience.

In the afternoon we had time to live like the locals do who select Pokhara as their prefered resort destination in Nepal. The city has a great lake we were able to experience by boat.  There are shops that have treasures for everyone who loves crafts. Restaurants abound which serve many different cuisines.  After the rainy season there is a waterfall which is not so big at this time of year but was still great to view. 

Even the best days have to come to an end so here is the sunset over the Annapurana range. These experiences bring you so close to nature and the spirituality that is the heart of Nepal.