Africa 2011

In case you didn't know that I have a love of African travel here I am again to share all the wonderful things I will be able to see and learn on this trip. I hope it makes your heart sing for Africa as well. For once I actually have a day in Johannesburg to discover what makes it tick and why the locals are so proud of their city. To understand this I felt that I needed to travel to the heart of Apartheid and learn what I could about what happened then and what is going on now. To accomplish this I set out on a tour of Soweto and the Apartheid museum--I had 6 hours but you could spend several days. The introduction to Soweto first lets you know of the depths of the horrors that accompanied anyone who lived there and those who still do. This was gold country so the village men came from their homes to live in communal housing and work in the mines. There was no running water and no electricity. They lived together in dormitories--but nothing like what we send our children to live in while they are in college.
To hide from the public these living conditions, housing called "facades" were built towards the road so that inquiring eyes thought that everything was wonderful. These "facades" are in fact quite welcoming and are basically single family units instead of housing hundreds. Please see a typical exampleThe government has made an effort to take the worst of the housing and offered upgraded options. Unfortunately as individuals avail themselves of this they leave their tin houses for the many illegal nationals fleeing Zimbabwe. These people fleeing from their homes pay the slumlords and live in the tin shanties without any necessities. Neither are they counted in the population of Soweto which could be from 3 to 5 million!

Still fortune has come even to Jo'burg. Entrepreneurs are everywhere. I won't note the shopping malls and dining venues but I think two things are important to show. Once there was a power plant that is no longer needed so it has been painted with Freedom and a bungee jump created between the two towers.
But the real example of change in this city is the World Cup Stadium . This event spotlighted South Africa to the world and illustrated that this is a fantastic destination which is unique and most importantly safe! I am glad that I had my day in Jo'Burg. So often all any one sees is the airport and the inside of a hotel where they can be anywhere because the caliber of hotel is first class in every way.

Tomorrow we are off to Botswana. Internet will be limited because this will be the bush but please say tuned because the next pictures will be of the heart of Africa--it's animals and its landscapes. Hope you fall in love too!

The Last Day

Today was going to be a day of exploring the town of Franschhoek before a lovely dinner at the Tasting Room at the Relais and Chateaux Le Quartier Francais. However, we have so enjoyed both Royal Malewane in the bush and La Residence in the Winelands that we decided to venture to Hermanos on the ocean to see the third sister, Birkenhead House. It didn't hurt that we learned that the whales were there at this time of year. So off we went on a 1 1/2 hour scenic drive over the mountains. The hotel was lovely as it sits right on the ocean. We enjoyed our lunch on the terrace and struggled to see whales. Usually they are very close in but because a cold front had come through the surf was up and they were farther out to sea. At last we did catch a glimpse of them but unfortunately too far away for pictures. With more time we could have taken one of the whale boats. Next time; because this is where I want to go back to swim with the great white sharks!

We returned over the scenic mountains in time to explore the shops of Franschhoek. There is such wonderful art in Africa. The colors of everything are so cheerful and often you get to meet and are buying from the artist. It is truly a special experience. But then everything in Africa is amazing--I can't get enough of this country and only think about when I can come back. Safaris are terrific but it is the people and variety that makes this a destination to explore over and over. Come hear the drums; feel the rhythm; appreciate the journey and the successes that have taken place here.

The Winelands

There is so much to do in South Africa that often it is hard to fit in the Winelands. We decided to take a day and tour as well as spend the night at La Residence. It was a day and night to remember. The country side is beautiful. There are are vineyards and a winery at every turn in the road. The restaurants are amazing not just for their food quality which is excellent but also for their beauty and the vistas that you can enjoy while dining. The small towns have everything from boutiques to African craft street markets. I am so glad that we took this time to really explore and enjoy a new region. It just adds another amazing layer to this country.

One of the things we did was to visit a cheetah rescue center. It is an opportunity to get up close and personal with a cheetah. It was a great experience to pat a living cheetah but I have to say that since we had such amazing game viewing in the bush the thrill was diminished since these cheetahs are in captivity. The bush is the best game experience.

To complete the history lesson we started yesterday we saw the prison where Nelson Mandela walked to freedom. This was a moving sight.

Cape Town and Robben Island

We said good by to the bush and traveled to Cape Town. This is a beautiful city and Table Mountain is the back drop for the many wonderful hotels, restaurants and shops that make this city world famous. The cuisine is amazing. We are staying at the One & Only that has Nobu for one of its restaurants. That is a dining experience to be remembered. The spa at the hotel has imaginative treatments that incorporate elements of the sea and the bush.

It cannot be forgotten that here is also the history of South Africa. We traveled by ferry to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. The picture above shows you his cell. He slept on 2 blankets on the floor and you see the toilet and eating space. We learned the story of the prison but also the story of South Africa from an inmate. It is this history that shapes this country and makes it truly amazing to see how far it has come. The pride in the World Ccup is evident everywhere!

The Bush

So our 6 night 16 camp journey began. We were prepared to love the properties and to see animals but nothing in our imaginations could prepare us for how wonderful this experience would be. Each camp was superlative and the service impeccable. What is special is that each camp has taken complete advantage of its location in the bush--you feel like you are outside even when you are inside. The other great thing is that each camp is really small so there is a great feeling of intimacy. I thought I would have a favorite but what we learned is that each camp has a separate character and feel. Just in brief we visited both of the Singita properties and each has sister lodges. We explored Londolozi where if leopards are your thing you would definitely need to consider. We traveled to Lion Sands which has two lodges and even a tree house where you can sleep out under the stars--we did! Then onto Royal Malewane where you can see a heard of elephants at the watering hole just beyond the camp deck. Finally to Camp Jubulani where elephant is king. Here we were treated to a night elephant safari--the only place in the world where you can have this amazing experience. We had the rare treat to see a male lion while on this trek.

There is so much to say about each of the camps but the true star is the jungle and the wonderful animals who live there everyday. Truly there is a circle of life that you can witness. And witness not interfere is what these camps do. Because these camps are so careful with there intrusion on the jungle visitors have the opportunity to see animals rarely seen close up. We had this experience with lions and their cubs, a leopard, the rare black rhino and a cheetah.

Singita Means Miracle

So off we go on chartered flights to the bush. It has been an amazing two days. The first game drive at Singita we saw the Big Five! Unbelievable. The service has been wonderful and the game experience unparalleled. The weather has been warm for early spring but that brings the animals to the watering holes so they are easy to spot. So here is how our days go--get up really early and go on a game drive where you see so many animals. Come back for lunch and then out again. At night it has been dinner under the stars. Yesterday was the first time I have ever called clients from a trip and told them that they needed to make this journey. The stars at night, the smells during the day as you drive the tundra are life changing. This gives you a glimpse at what we are seeing. More to come with even more fantastic game. When you think you have seen everything there is more!

Tintswalo at Waterfall

For a completely different experience while in Johannesburg, Damian and I moved to Tintswalo at Waterfall. This is a lovely Virtuoso property created like a horse farm. As you drive up you think you are approaching a lovely stable. Right away we knew that this was going to be a satisfying stay--one of the Virtuoso amenities is a Vital Source Spa Massage. Nothing could be better after the long plane ride. Additional amenities include a bottle of South African wine, daily breakfast in your room and pre-dinner cocktails and canapes.

The weather is beautiful. It is early spring. Our room overlooks a great green grass space that reminds me of a polo field. We took a walk and discovered all of the lovely small waterfalls. Lunch was delicious and this has given us a day to prepare for our nonstop travel over the next week. This a lovely break from the congestion of Johannesburg. With wireless internet we have been able to blog and even catch up with what is going on at the office. Tomorrow the real adventure begins.